[LalaMimi]

Has anyomne had any interesting experiences with a Moroccan fakih/shawafa?


Temara---"Quli Taslim" (submit to the power of Jinns). I was asked to say so at the entrance of a fortuneteller's house, located in Temera on the outskirts of Rabat. The house of Fatima Zohra was full of people from all walks of life who came to ask about their future, their relationships and their work.

Fatima Zohra's house was very chic, though located near a shantytown in the area. There was a waiting room for guests, and an office with a telephone and a secretary. My colleague and I were so stirred by what we saw.

"Wow, it seems that she is richer than Bill Gates," I told my colleague laughing.

"Don't forget, you are my translator and I am Madam Lopez, beware of the slip of the tongue," I added.

In a taxi, before coming to see the fortuneteller (Shawafa in local dialect), we were searching for a lie to tell the Shawafa.

We couldn't tell her that we are journalists and coming to do an investigative reporting on witchcraft in Morocco. So I chose to perform the character of a rich American who has been deceived by a Moroccan guy. My colleague should play the role of my translator as I am supposed to know only few words in Darija. I thought it was a funny game.

We started thinking about a name. As we were listening to a Jennifer Lopez song, we decided that I should be named Madam Lopez.

Before getting to the Shawafa's house, we had mixed feelings: phobia and amusement. We hesitated before entering the house. I burst out laughing and I told my colleague: "Come on, my translator. Let's get into this adventure."

At the waiting room, we were scanning everything around. I was busy chatting with my colleague until I heard "Madam Lopiiiiiiiiiiiiiiz" with a countryside accent.

The Shawafa was in her twenties. Her office was very tidy and organized. In the corner of the room, were many hjabat (talismans), magically charged objects used to attract a certain type of energy or a particular type of person.

"Bojor Madame Lopiiiiiz," said the Shawafa in a Moroccan-countryside way (Bonjour Madame Lopez in French).

Fatima Zohra told my ‘translator' to ask me to put an egg next to my heart and think about what I want to know.

I concentrated on the story of the Moroccan guy who was supposed to have deceived me.

Fatima Zohra told me about a guy that I had never known. My colleague and I found ourselves deeply involved in the ‘show'.

"Madame Lopiiiiiz, rah andak laakas (you are unfortunate, and cursed). Someone has cast spell on you. Tell me; do you have any of his clothes, or anything of his belongings," said the Shawafa.

"No," I answered.

"Ok, what's his name and his mother's," she asked.

I looked at my supposed translator as we both didn't think about this question. My colleague answered quickly: "Morad wald Khadija".

As my colleague was talking, the phone rang. We heard the Shawafa telling the caller: "Safi gharadak takda, douz aandi bach naatik douk el hjiybat (your wishes are fulfilled, come and take your talismans), said Fatima Zohra.

Her phone didn't stop ringing. It seemed that she got calls from all over Morocco and abroad.

As she was busy speaking on the phone with her clients, it gave us the opportunity to think about what we want to say next.

Our thinking was interrupted with the screaming of a woman in the waiting room. Fatima Zohra jumped from her chair and rushed to the room to see what was going on.

"Taslim Taslim, rah lamra tayhouha el msalmine (submit to the power of Jinns, the woman is possessed)," said some of the women in the waiting room.

Fatima Zohra asked us to wait in the room until she looked into the case of the possessed woman.

"It seems that this day will never end. I don't know how much time we have to wait here. I started having little phobia," I told my colleague.

Back to the waiting room, we saw people busy talking about the objective of their visit to the Shawafa, and shared their stories.



Why people consult Shawafat?

Amina, 50, said she came to the Shawafa to know about the future of her beautiful daughter.

"My daughter is very beautiful, but she is nearly beyond the normal age for marriage. Lots of men ask her hand, but as soon as we agree on marriage, the men leave without reason. This has happened with at least six men and I don't want my daughter to be a spinster," said Amina.

"My daughter is psychologically ill and refuses to see anyone who comes to ask her hand, as she knows that he will leave without reason like the others," added Amina.

The said mother is among lots of women and men who resort to fortunetellers and Fakha to solve their problems.

Leila, another woman in her thirties said she was advised to come here to bring back her husband who no longer cares about her.

I felt thirsty. My colleague asked the secretary for a glass of water. She, then showed us the way to the Kitchen.

Once there, we were astonished to see several pictures of Khaliji-like men (people from the gulf, middle-east) along with candles of different colours lit on in front of the said pictures.

"It's a funny game, isn't it," I told my colleague. As we were watching the pictures, the secretary called us to see the Shawafa.

The latter gave me several Talismans, along with a list of things to buy for the Boukhour (a mixture of herbs, plants, and/or essential oils in a flower or wood base that, when burned, is aromatic. Incense has been used for centuries in religious and magical rites).

My colleague asked her about the Boukhour. Fatima Zohra said we can either buy them from "el Attar" (herbs vendor) or give her MAD 1000 (about 90 Euros) to buy them for us.

My colleague and I were stunned. "What's this Boukhourthat costs MAD 1000," we wondered silently as we were exchanging looks.

"No, don't worry, we will buy them ourselves, anything else," my colleague told Fatima Zohra.

"No, when you bring me what I asked you to do, I will tell you about the next steps," she said.

We gave the Shawafa MAD 200, and left. Then we went to see a Fkih, located in the opposite neighborhood. A Fkih is a kind of witchdoctor. He is a healer who believes that illnesses are caused by magic and are therefore best cured by it, as opposed to science or developed medicine.

We were told that in Temara, there are many fortunetellers and witchdoctors. I started feeling a terrible headache. There was a Fkih who has an echo in the area called “al-Mokhtar”. This time we had to perform other characters.